c relentless qui a fait c parce qui as saute le cyl #4 a cause qui as plus d'air qui rentre vue qui est plus pres du trottle
ca apauvrie le melange et ainsi de suite bref ca depend a quel point tu y en demande pis ca l,air du gros gossage genre driller + tapper la tete. mais pour le trou c ok ya une frost plug a ste place la.
This is the pass that broke the car- I leaned the car out because the EGT's were on the fat side to the tune of 1400-1450 or so. I was a little worried doing this because cylinder number 4 where the EGT probe is was showing signs of salt'n pepper on the plug even with the mixture pig rich! however I had the car up to 1650 last year with no ill effects so figured it was worth a try. Car pulled hard and the breakup problem gone! I was so suprised I forgot to hit the NOS trigger till I was well in to 3rd gear and the car was screaming down the track- EGT was 1600 through the traps and everything seemed ok till I got on the return road and:
1) right front slick was flat
2) slight skip
Went and got the truck, changed the tires and headed back to the pits. Car had a skip that came and went, number 4 piston is cracked but no too bad.
MOi je veux essayer sa mais, je me demande si sa vaut la peine de garder le thermostat et d'aller porter la hose de rad directement dedans le rad ou alors, garder le thermostat a sa place avec le tuyau du rad a la meme place et juste faire un trous d'environ pour drainer le cyl.4, puis retourner le prestone directement dans le hoses de rad du haut, apres le thermostat. CHU TANNER DE PETER LE PUTIN DE PISTON #4.
The water outlet for the cylinder head has been relocated to the end of the head- thus insuring that cylinder number 4 doesn't suffer from stagnate cooling anymore. You can see in the previous picture where the stock thermostat location is blocked off by a plate.
